Safe Skincare Acids During Pregnancy and Breastfeeding
Hormonal fluctuations can lead to various skin concerns such as acne, hyperpigmentation, and sensitivity.
While it's essential to address these issues, safety becomes paramount, especially when considering active ingredients like acids. Here's a guide to using glycolic, lactic, mandelic, and salicylic acids safely during pregnancy and breastfeeding.
Whatever it is, the way you tell your story online can make all the difference.
NOTE- for 1st time users or if moving off a retinol during pregnancy and substituting it for an alternative active: AHA’s AND BHA’s
What do they do, and why should I be using them?
Alpha Hydroxy Acid (AHA) represents acids
derived from a natural substance like sugar cane, milk, almonds, or grapes. They work by absorbing into the skin pushing dead lifeless cells towards and off the surface.
As we age our skins natural exfoliation process slows down so AHA’s are considered a must for most skin types to keep your skins cells regeneration cycle moving.
AHA’s exfoliate the skin, increases cell turnover,
hydrate and resurface the skin. AHA’s improve
textural issues like red marks from past acne,
improve the skin overall appearance and is also
helpful for hyperpigmentation.
The following acids are AHA’s
◦ Glycolic Acid
Glycolic acid, an alpha hydroxy acid (AHA), is celebrated for its exfoliating properties. It helps to remove dead skin cells, promote cell turnover, and improve skin texture.
Safe Percentage in pregnancy: Up to 10%
◦ Lactic Acid
Lactic acid is another AHA, known for its gentler exfoliation compared to glycolic acid. It also has hydrating properties, making it suitable for sensitive skin types.
Safe Percentage in pregnancy: Up to 10%
◦ Mandelic Acid
Mandelic acid, an AHA derived from bitter almonds, is known for its larger molecular size, which penetrates the skin more slowly, making it less irritating.
Safe Percentage in pregnancy: Up to 10%
Beta Hydroxy Acid (BHA) is an exfoliator best for oily / congested / acne-prone skin / rosacea.
While AHA’s love water, BHA’s love oil. They can bypass the oil that clogs pores and dissolve the mix of sebum and dead skin that leads to acne, as well as stabilize the lining of the pore (which contributes to acne).
BHA’s improve blackheads, whiteheads, and have anti-inflammatory and antibacterial properties which is also beneficial for Rosacea clients.
◦ Salicylic Acid
Salicylic acid, a beta hydroxy acid (BHA), is effective in treating acne due to its ability to penetrate and exfoliate inside the pores to dissolve and regulate sebum.
Safe Percentage in pregnancy: Up to 2%
STEP UP PROGRAM: AHA’S + BHA’S
◦ WEEK 1: Use x 2 a week e.g. Monday & Thursday
◦ WEEK 2: Use x 2 a week e.g. Monday, Wednesday & Friday
◦ WEEK 3: Use x 4 times a week…
Build up to 7 times a week over the next coming weeks if desired.
All generally safe during pregnancy, but always consult a skincare practitioner / dermatologist for targeted plan to address any specific skincare concerns during pregnancy .
Safe Alternatives to Retinol: Bakuchiol
Retinol and other vitamin A derivatives are renowned for their anti-aging benefits but are contraindicated during pregnancy. As a safer alternative, consider bakuchiol.
Bakuchiol:
A plant-based compound that mimics the effects of retinol, promoting cell turnover and collagen production without the associated risks. Incorporating bakuchiol into your nightly skincare routine can help address fine lines and improve skin texture safely.
Importance of Broad-Spectrum Mineral SPF and Antioxidant Serum to protect and prevent from pigmentation- more importantly when you are at a higher risk of developing Melasma / Chlosma during pregnancy
Melasma (also called chloasma / the pregnancy mask) refers to brown patches that appear on your skin, usually on your face. It is often caused by hormonal changes and exposure to sunlight.
Melasma won't cause any health problems to you or your baby, but it can be difficult to cope with emotionally and can be difficult to treat post partum so prevention is always the best option.
NOTES ON MELASMA / CHLOASMA
One of the most common skin concerns during pregnancy is melasma, characterized by dark pigmented patches on the skin.
Melasma is a skin condition in which some skin cells become darker. Commonly occurring during pregnancy, melasma is sometimes referred to as chloasma, or the ‘mask of pregnancy’ because dark patches on the face can resemble a mask. While not being harmful to the health of either mother or child, pregnancy melasma can be a source of embarrassment for some expecting mothers.
If you are currently expecting, or thinking about becoming pregnant, this post will cover everything you need to know about pregnancy-induced melasma, including ways to prevent occurrence and treatment options.
WHAT IS PREGNANCY-RELATED MELASMA?
Melasma during pregnancy is a skin condition in which melanocytes, the skin cells that produce melanin, produce more pigment than usual. Melasma is only a pigmentary concern, and does not affect the health of the mother or baby.
Primary symptoms include darkening patches of skin on the face, especially around the forehead, cheekbones, nose and upper lip. Exposure to the sun can make melasma worse. In addition, melasma can make skin that is already darker even more so.
HOW COMMON IS MELASMA DURING PREGNANCY?
During pregnancy, the body goes through significant hormonal changes. This can be a trigger for melasma. This common condition occurs in 50-70% of pregnant women.
You’re also more likely to develop melasma during pregnancy if someone in your family has had it, if you have naturally dark skin, or if you spend a lot of time in the sun.
WHAT CAUSES MELASMA DURING PREGNANCY?
Melasma can occur at any point in a pregnancy, although it typically develops during the second or third trimester. It’s caused by hormonal changes that take place during pregnancy, which affect the skin’s pigment-producing melanocytes. Melasma sometimes resolves itself one hormonal balance is restored. Sometimes, however, it persists.
DOES PREGNANCY-RELATED MELASMA DIFFER FROM TRADITIONAL MELASMA?
Pregnancy is not the only cause of melasma. Non-pregnancy related hormonal changes like oral contraceptives may also cause skin hyperpigmentation. Melasma can even occur in men, although it’s far more common in women.
The following are common melasma triggers:
• Pregnancy
• Non-pregnancy related hormonal imbalances
• Hormonal birth control
• Hormone replacement therapy
• Sun exposure
• Heat exposure
In addition to the above, genetics play a crucial role. If someone in your family has had melasma, you’re more vulnerable to the condition.
CAN MELASMA DURING PREGNANCY BE PREVENTED?
It’s impossible to prevent melasma with certainty, but there are ways to reduce your risk or minimize the appearance of your melasma.
• Avoid Excess Sun Exposure
UV light exposure only makes hyperpigmentation worse by further darkening skin. During your pregnancy, avoid spending too much time in the sun. Wear protective clothing and sunscreen as needed.
• Avoid Excess Heat
Heat can trigger melasma by causing the blood vessels in the skin to dilate and send signals to create pigmentation.
Preventing oxidative stress and protecting the skin from UV damage are crucial steps in managing this condition - you can do this by using a good antioxidant serum and broad spectrum MINERAL SPF
◦ Broad-Spectrum Mineral SPF: Opt for a mineral sunscreen containing zinc oxide or titanium dioxide. These physical blockers provide a safe and effective shield against UVA and UVB rays, reducing the risk of sun-induced pigmentation.
◦ Antioxidant Serum: Antioxidants like vitamin C, vitamin E, and ferulic acid can neutralize free radicals and reduce oxidative stress. Using an antioxidant serum underneath your sunscreen enhances protection, preventing the formation of dark spots and maintaining a healthy glow.
Always consult with an experienced skincare practitioner or dermatologist if you have any specific skincare concerns or unsure if the products you are using are suitable during pregnancy and breastfeeding.